Instrument Care Advice - Music on Sea

Here are some general tips, however the music tutor will provide support too:

Handle – with care; instruments are delicate and break if not handled carefully. Use clean hands.
Storage – keep the instrument in the case supplied when not in use with zips and clips securely fastened. Keep accessories, such as rosin or reeds, in the pockets of the case to avoid damage. Avoid the instrument being left anywhere too hot (next to a radiator in or a hot car) or too cold (in the garage on a winter’s night).
Hazards – keep instruments away from water.
Repairs – Avoid trying yourself.
Assembling – as a tutor or specialist if need be. Forcing parts together or holding the instrument incorrectly can cause damage.
Personalisation – avoid writing on the instrument/case, using stickers etc. Use a luggage tag or ribbon on the case to identify it as yours.
Cleaning – avoid using household products and these can damage.

Instrument specific care advice

Brass

Clean the inside of the instrument to prevent the build-up of saliva and dirt deposits which form over time if not regularly maintained.
Using a jug of warm soapy water, (brass soap from a music shop or non gritty diluted washing up liquid) carefully pour down the bell keeping the valves depressed, this will allow the water to circulate around the tubing.
When the black deposits disappear, run through again with clean warm water until there are no soapy bubbles left!
Slides and valves can be removed one at a time and immersed in a bowl of warm soapy water, a small cleaning brush or cotton bud can be carefully inserted into the slide/cut out, to remove any stubborn dirt. Then again clean water can be used to remove soap. Use a cotton cloth (lint free) to dry off the slide/valve.
The valve casing will also need to be cleaned and dried using a pull through cotton cloth. Old tea towels are useful or you can buy a cleaning kit.
If the slides are discoloured, you can carefully use a metal cleaner like Brasso, just on the inner sleeve and buff with a cloth. Do not get brass cleaner on the lacquer as it will tarnish it.
Using a special slide grease, put a small amount of it on the slide before re-inserting.
Valves can be re-oiled before putting back into the valve chamber, “click” the valve into place by twisting gently to locate the correct position, this ensures that the holes line up with the tubing on the instrument.
All mouthpieces should be disinfected and cleaned regularly using a hygienic mouthpiece cleaner

Guitars

Occasionally a string may break and need replacing. Your tutor will be able to show you how to replace a string. It is a good idea to keep a spare set in your case. Spare strings can be purchased from your local music shop.
Keep a clean, dry cloth handy in your guitar case at all times, and be sure to give the guitar a good wipe from head to toe before and after every play session.
Keep the guitar in its case to keep it safe.

Strings

Always put the instrument down string-side-up so that you don’t damage the bridge or strings.
Take care when tightening the bow, an overtightened bow can snap. Your bow should be loosened when put in the case and only tightened when being used.
After each use a dry cloth or duster to wipe with down the strings and body to remove dirt and excess rosin.
A shoulder rest is recommended for all violins and violas. It helps you to hold the instrument correctly and comfortably. Ask your tutor what they recommend.
Keep the guitar in its case to keep it safe.
It is practically impossible to break a string. However, over time they may become old and start to fray. If you need to replace a string, please ask your tutor to show you how to do it or look for a Youtube tutorial. It’s very easy to do.

Violins

Use a dry, clean duster to wipe the violin and bow after use to remove rosin, as a build up of rosin will eventually destroy the varnish on the instrument. It is also a good idea to wipe the strings as a layer of rosin will affect the sound. Keep the duster in the violin case and use it to cover the instrument for added protection.
Loosen your bow a little after use before putting it back in the case.
Check that the bridge is parallel with the edge of the fingerboard. Ask your tutor to help re-position the bridge if needed.
Check the strings are in good condition. If a string starts to fray, (it will usually be where you put your fingers down to make the notes), the string needs to be changed. It will make your fingers sore, otherwise.

Tuning

The violin strings (from left to right) are G, D, A and E. G is the thickest string and sounds the lowest. The E string is the thinnest and highest sounding string.

You can use a piano or a tuning app to give you the notes. The violin is tuned using fine tuners/adjusters or the pegs. The adjusters, if your violin has them, are good for slight changes but you will need to use the pegs if the instrument is very out of tune.

Sit with the violin upright on your knee and with the strings facing you. Hold the violin by the neck.
Listen to the note on the piano or tuning app and pluck the same string.
Follow the string up to the correct tuning peg.
If the note needs to be higher, twist the peg away from you. At the same time keep pressure on the peg to keep it pushed into the peg hole. If the note needs to be lower turn the peg towards you.

Violin strings do break. Until you become used to tuning your Violin it is usual that strings will break. Strings can be replaced. It is a good idea to have a spare set in your case.

Replacing a broken string

Replacing a broken string is not as difficult as it might seem. Remove the old string and you will see that the peg has a hole through which a short length of one end of the string should be threaded (the string should be wound neatly around the peg and not cross over other strings). The other end of the string will have (preferably) a ball end or a loop end. This goes into the hole in the tailpiece and over the bridge, sitting in a slight indentation. Gradually tighten the string, checking regularly, until you reach the required pitch.

Bows

When you play your violin, tighten the bow hair. Twist the nut screw at the heel of the bow, away from you. There needs to be a curved dip in the middle of the bow, otherwise it can damage the bow.

If the bow feels as though it is not making good contact with the string, it is probably because rosin is needed. Never touch the bow hair with the palm of the hand as the natural oils in the skin will transfer to the hair, making it greasy.

The bow hair should be loosened a little after playing, before it is returned to the case.

Every so often, a few bow hairs will become loose. You do not need to worry about this, unless the bow hair width is very much thinner than usual. Just carefully and gently pull the loose hairs at the tip or heel of the bow and discard.

Flutes

Assembly

Before assembling the Flute for the first time look closely at how the instrument is laid out in the case. Each part goes in a specific space in the case and putting them in the wrong place and forcing the lid down can cause damage. Tip: a good way of remembering is to take a photo before unpacking.

Remember to always hold each section of the instrument away from the keywork whilst assembling. A great deal of damage can be done if keywork is gripped too tightly!

Care and Maintenance

A little bit of care and maintenance after each play or every so often will help your Flute stay in good condition.

After each play swab out the Flute after each play.
Gently wipe over all joints (particularly metal on metal ones) to make sure they are smooth and free of debris which could prevent them from being easily put together the next time.
From time to time wipe over the keywork very gently with a smooth lint free cloth. This will help prevent tarnish and build up of fluff and debris. Only wipe over the key surfaces, don’t poke between them as this could result in unclipping of springs or damage to the balance mechanism.
Flute mouthpieces should also be wiped around the lip plate and tone(blow) hole and a quick wipe with a damp cloth if the area is particularly dirty or sticky should do no harm.

Never submerge or run any Flute parts under water. This will damage the instrument. Don’t use a liquid silver polish on the instrument. You might think you are making the instrument nice and shiny but you are probably damaging the layers making it likely to crack.

Clarinets

Assembly

Before you open the case make sure that it is on a flat, secure, surface and the right way up!

Open the case and you will now see your clarinet in 5 pieces.

Mouthpiece (with a metal ligature to hold the reed)
Barrel (short and shaped like a barrel)
Upper fingering section (slightly shorter than the…)
Lower fingering section
Bell (shaped like a bell)

The order you put these together isn’t too important (you will develop your own system as time goes on) but here is one method:

Start by sitting down so that if you drop anything your lap will catch it.

Before you start, grease all the joint corks with the grease provided. This should normally be done approximately once a month. Apply this with a finger to avoid over greasing

Note: Sometimes the joints can be incredibly tight on a new instrument. An adult may need to assemble it at first. You may find that leaving it (safely) assembled will help the corks to compress. Grease regularly if the joints are tight.

To join the 2 fingering sections together you will see that there are metal tabs on both sections that need to align correctly so that the mechanics of the clarinet work properly. It is crucial that they line up and that the one on the upper section goes over the one on the lower section without damaging the cork on the upper section’s tab.

If you press any of the rings around the finger holes, on either section, it will lift the tab!
Each joint connects to the next; as long as you’re gentle, they will only fit together in the correct way.

Always hold the 2 pieces that you’re connecting so that the other joints don’t accidentally twist!

Take the lower fingering section and hold it firmly in your right hand, avoiding lifting the tab. Finger holes up!
Take the upper fingering section and hold it likewise in your left hand carefully pressing the finger holes so that this tab does lift.
Push together with a back and forth twisting action avoiding crashing any keys together (do not screw it together as this will damage the cork on the joint). When the link is lined up, with the upper tab over the lower, the fingering holes will be in the correct position.
Holding the lower fingering section twist the bell (back and forth) into position.
Likewise, holding the upper fingering section twist on the barrel and then the mouthpiece. (note: sometimes the barrel and mouthpiece are already joined together in the case.)

The clarinet is now fully assembled and ready to put the reed on.

Reeds

A starting player will usually require a softer reed (e.g. 1.5 strength) to enable good tone production. Over time mouth muscles (embouchure) and diaphragm (core) will strengthen a so a stronger reed will be required to give a little bit more resistance.

Attaching the reed

Each time, before play, give the reed a thorough (but gentle) suck. This releases all the fibres of the reed and allows it to vibrate more freely.
Stand the Clarinet on your lap so that you’re looking directly at the “face” of your mouthpiece where the reed will go.
Remove the “ligature” (metal bracket) and place the reed in its approximate final position holding it in place with your thumb.
Carefully slide the ligature over the reed, so that the top of the ligature is about 3mm below the sloping part of the mouthpiece and start to tighten it up.
Before completely tightening, adjust your reed so that it lies perfectly to the shape of the face. It should be fractionally below, not protruding above, the top of the mouthpiece. You should be able to see a hairs breadth of black mouthpiece above the tip of the reed.
Always use your mouthpiece cap when you’re not playing, this will prevent accidental damage and preserve hygiene.

Care and Maintenance

Sometimes in clarinets the insides of the tone-holes (under keys) collect a build-up of fluff and skin debris which can be carefully and gently removed with a cotton bud.
Wash the Clarinet mouthpiece in warm soapy water. Only do this once the reed and ligature (metal bracket) have been removed.
Greasing of cork joints should be done very lightly but often – especially if the joint is very tight or the cork looks dry or in danger of crumbling.
Reeds will survive a quick dip under running water as long as they are allowed to dry lying flat before putting away. Any reeds looking particularly grey, or dirty or even worse showing signs of mildew should be immediately discarded!
Always use your mouthpiece cap when you’re not playing, this will prevent accidental damage and preserve hygiene.
Never submerge or run any Clarinet parts under water. This will damage the instrument.